Joe and I are currently rafting down the grand canyon so this is a throwback review of a hike we did in 2022.
Early October is a truly incredible time to hike the Traveler Loop in Baxter State Park. The crisp air, the rustle of leaves underfoot, and the vibrant tapestry of fall colors make this hike unforgettable. While it's one of the most stunning hikes in Maine during the fall season, it's also one of the most challenging. For Joe and me, this hike turned out to be more than just a physical test; it was a journey that led us to make life-changing decisions. Keep reading to find out how this adventure became a defining moment for us.
About the Hike
The Traveler Loop is a 10.6-mile trek located in the northern part of Baxter State Park. Unlike other parks that prioritize recreation, Baxter puts wilderness preservation first, and you can feel that commitment the moment you step onto the trail. One of the park's strict rules is no dogs allowed, which helps protect the local ecosystem. As much as I would have loved to have Luna with us, it made sense to leave her behind this time. It’s all part of maintaining the wild and untouched character of Baxter.
The Peaks and Terrain
The Traveler Loop is not for the faint of heart, but that’s exactly what makes it so rewarding. The trail starts gently at South Branch Pond, giving you a false sense of ease before the real work begins. We hiked the loop counterclockwise, which is the best way to tackle the steepest climbs early on. The trail takes you over three major peaks: Peak of the Ridges, The Traveler, and North Traveler. The first challenge hit us as we ascended the rocky slopes of Peak of the Ridges, where loose gravel constantly shifted underfoot. To be honest, there were a couple moments when we thought about turning around and we hadn't even reached the first major peak!
We pushed on and summited but from there, it’s a tough climb over The Traveler, the highest point on the loop at 3,550 feet. This stretch is all about steep ascents and navigating unstable granite boulders, but the views are worth every bead of sweat. The foliage-filled valleys below looked like something out of a dream.
Once you reach the alpine zone between The Traveler and North Traveler, the terrain flattens out, and you can see your trail winding far into the distance. It’s a breathtaking experience, and a little bit of a mental break from the intense climbing. North Traveler is a personal favorite for me, not just because it signals the home stretch, but also for the wild mountain cranberries (lingonberries) that you can snack on as you walk. Finally, you descend and South Branch Pond comes back into view— the perfect place to take a refreshing dip after a long day.
People might see an elevation of 3,550' and assume it's easier than the 4,000-footers in other parts of Maine, but don't be fooled. This hike’s cumulative elevation gain and rugged terrain make it just as challenging as tackling Katahdin. Plan for 8-10 hours, no water to refill your bottles and variable weather and terrain.
Camping at Trout Brook Farm
After a long day on the trail, we headed to Trout Brook Farm to set up camp for the night. This quiet campground is about 20 minutes from the trailhead and is one of my favorites in Baxter State Park. It's not very popular, which means you can really experience the solitude and peace of the wilderness. Joe got the tent set up while I started a fire, and soon we were easing into our camp chairs, massaging our sore legs, and digging into our backpacker meals.
This trip was especially momentous for Joe and me. It wasn’t just our first big hike together; it was also the moment we realized we were ready to take the plunge and make an offer on what is now our home and homestead today. Sitting around the campfire, sipping red wine, and reflecting on the day, we knew this place—and this life—was where we belonged. That decision makes the Traveler Loop a hike we will always hold close to our hearts.
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